Last Day of my Trip

The last 28 days have been unbelievable. From Athens to Damascus I travelled by land and sea, and I have come a long way. The things I have seen are unforgettable.

I will always remember…

how I was the only one in the ruins of Palmyra, and how the 3000 year old towers cast such long shadows in the Valley of the Tombs,

and how I arm wrestled a Turk named Husayn at a bus stop… who later on the night bus to Istanbul, explained the meaning of Islam to me in Turkish but somehow I could understand every word of what he was saying,

and how when walking down the dangerous Acropolis path high up in Bergama, the call to prayer sounded out and I could hear it sound from as far as I could see in a unison of voices…

and of course I’ll remember how stupid I was in Instabul…hahaha

and I’ll remember how when the 2^nd rocket goes off at 8am in Pamplona, there is a wave of fantastic energy that runs through the crowd that cannot be explained… it can only be felt and recalled by those who ran

and I’ll remember how shitty it was to sleep in a park in 15 degree temperature

and how good those fish sandwiches along the Galata bridge in Istanbul were

and how I taught those Iraqis in Aleppo how to say “Deew” in Cantonese. And how those other Iraqis scared the shit outta me in Aleppo

and how crossing the street in Syria is an extreme sport

and how Genghis and this little brother from the water pipe shop drew me pictures of their home, and how I taught them my disappearing card trick…

…my internet time is running out, but these are some of the things I will remember and I hope I will never forget.

I ran with the bulls

... this morning. It was incredible, and it marked the end of my trip. My first thought was that... hey this isn´t so dangerous... but as I walked back to the start of the run, I saw all this blood on the streets and then I learned this morning´s run was the longest and bloodiest one in Pamplona´s history.... check out this article.

But I´m fine, and I´m going back to Madrid today to chill out... I feel my trip is officially over, and I´m just relaxing now.



Here's a picture of some blood on the street after I ran.

Seven gored by Spanish bulls in one day

July 12, 2007 - 6:54PM

Charging bulls gored seven people and seriously injured several others as this year's San Fermin festival in Pamplona served up its longest and most dangerous run on Thursday.

Thirteen people in total were hospitalised, seven for gorings and six for treatment of head injuries and other injuries, the local government said in a statement. Three were reported to be in very serious condition after undergoing operations

The pack of six 590-kilogram bulls and six steers - meant to keep the bulls running in a single pack - disintegrated shortly after the animals set off on the dash through the cobblestone streets of Pamplona in the sixth of eight planned runs.

One stray bull turned around and ran the wrong way. Herders with long sticks smacked it in the rump to get the animal pointed in the right direction.

The loose bull charged and tossed several runners - some of them clad in the traditional red-and-white garb of San Fermin - on its way to the bullring.

Several runners were trampled and seven runners were injured by bulls' horns.

One 48-year-old man from Pamplona was gored in the chest and reported to be in very serious condition. A 23-year-old Mexican was gored in the stomach and also reported as very serious.

The other runners who were gored were from Poland, Norway, Spain and the United States, with ages ranging from 23 to 50, officials said. They were all reported to be in serious condition.

The run lasted 6 minutes, 9 seconds, compared with the normal length of about 2 minutes, because the bulls separated - the most dangerous thing that can happen at Pamplona.

The festival in this northern town, renowned for its all-night street parties, dates back to the late 16th century. It gained worldwide fame in Ernest Hemingway's 1926 novel The Sun Also Rises.

Since record-keeping began in 1924, thirteen people have been killed during the runs, the most recent in 1995.

© 2007 AP DIGITAL

On the Road to Pamplona.

I am ALIVE! Sorry haven't posted since Syria, but for some reason after my first Syria post I couldn't access my blogsite anymore.... I have no doubt its the government.

Anyway Syria was simply amazing, and I will write about it later. Damascus rocks.

Going to party my ass off. Talk to u folks later... after one moreflight and a train ride.

J


This was the pandamonium when I arrived.














Scenes from the street.

Finally in Syria

Im finally in Syria after a 35 hour train ride. Wow, it was hardcore.

My first impression of Syria: this is the Middle East. No doubt about it. This is utter chaos. But the people are very friendly and helpful.

Don't have much longer on this internet.... but yeah so I'm here, and I'm safe.

Post more later.
Peace
J

The craziest story ever

For members of my famıly readıng thıs, I do NOT expect you to relate thıs story to ANY OTHER member of our famıly lıke your brothers or parents. Thıs story would gıve me Mom a heart attack. Okay?

Here we go.

Thıs ıs the story from two days ago: my fırst nıght ın Istanbul. I have posted thıs as a travel warnıng to other travellers.


Running through the Jungle (of Istanbul)

So, first night in Istanbul. I haven't met anyone at the hostel, so I'm just expecting a nice quiet stroll around Istiklal street just south of Taksim Square (the maın center of town). Now, I've read all about the scams so I thought I was well prepared.

I think because I am asian, I am an obvious target. Often, it is difficult to tell who is a local and who is not because anyone who ıs a shade of whıte can be a turk... except asians.

So as I'm walking up and down Istiklal, guys are coming up to me, asking me where I'm from, wantıng to be my friend... So I talk to them, but I know they are scamming me, so I polititely excuse myself every time.

So before I call it a night, I head to this bar called "Montreal" (of all places), the wall is decorated with all this Canadian crap. I even ask the owner about the scams and the people coming up to me... and he says "no, its just turkish hospitality!"

So these two guys come in the bar, order beers and sit down to the table next to mine. THey start talking to me, their english is good.... I think since they are just fellow people at the bar, they're possibly not scamming me. One of the guys looks like a crook, you can tell by the eyes, but the other one looks honest, so decide to give them the benefit of the doubt.

After a while of conversation and a few beers, we decide to hit up a "club". I make it very clear to them that I only have 20 LIRA on me, and that I only would go to expensive places... they were like "ok don't worry". I noticed it was odd that one of the guys kept going to the washroom (later I think it was to call people to coordinate the 'club' we were going to).

So we walk into this club, and the place is dead except for some young girls and old men. I should've left right away, but for some reason I didn't. I sit with these guys, me between the both of them in the corner table so I have no chance of getting out... I start to get suspicious and ask questions. They're like "no problem, we split everything 50/50".

Suddenly all the girls get on the dance floor and start dancing... its not real dancing its more like the dancing a girl does when someone orders her to dance. Three girls come over to our table and sit. The girl I am sitting from comes from Ukraine. Then I go to the washroom and one of the guys follows me to also head to the washroom. All these things add up to my conclusion that I am for sure getting scammed.

When I get back to the table, I tell them "its been a great night, but I have to go. Here's my 20 Lira, you guys stay". But they refuse and block my exit and are like... "we'll get the bill now, don't worry". The girls are still sitting next to us. The waiter brings the bill: 720 Lira! Thats about 600 CDN. "We split it 50/50", that's what one of the guy tells me. At this point the girls leave.

So I argue this bill, saying "you guys fucked me over, you knew I only had 20 Lira"... and them saying stupid bullshit. There's no way I could physically escape this club, there are too many obstacles. My best chance, I thought, was to be outside. So I say I'll pay one of the guys 200 Lira once we leave the bar and I go to the ATM. He "pays" the tab with his card, and we leave and bar.

We're walking up the sidestreet to get on to Istiklal street, and my mind is racing with possibilites to get out. Should I risk fighting these guys? I am pretty confident with my abilities, but two guys? In another country? Very risky...

We get to the main street, and right there is a police stand. (makeshift booth). I walk over to them to "ask for directions"... and I end up telling them about EVERYTHING, and how these guys try to extort me for nearly 400 Lira. The police don't understand a fuckın word I am saying. Talkıng to the cops is a guy wearing a bright orange shirt with a nice SLR camera arond this neck who 'translates' what I am saying to the police, although I am sure he is working with the guys who tried to scam me. The police seem unaffected by my story. Crap.

So I think: The police are not helping me, but aren't hurting me either. As long as I am there, the two guys won't try to jump me, but I won't get away scot free as well. I think the scammers realise its going to be difficult to get this money from me and want to cut a deal. One guy says "150 Lira and we will have no problems. Just 150 Lira." Since I don't want to go anywhere with the scammers, we compromise and I will go with the orange shirt guy to get the money then come back.

This is my chance.

I start walking up the street with the orange shirt guy, and I tell him "listen bud, how about I give you 60 Lira and you let me go". He says "no, I can't I konw these guys". I say "you work with these guys", but he says "no, but they are in my network".

So I only have on option - and the conditions are all in my favour. THe guy in the orange shirt looks a little out of shape, and is carrying a large expensive camera around his neck. We reach and ATM and I shake his hand saying "thanks for your help anyway". Then I point behind his back and say "are those guys over there". When he turns and looks behind him, I BOLT DOWN Istiklal street at FULL SPRINT! (with Turkish music playing the background, providing a soundtrack - i feel like I'm in a movie).

I look behind and no on followed me! I keep running, my lungs start to burn, and after about 60 seconds, and duck into a sidestreet into this empty bar and meet the surpised look of the owner. The first thing is do is LAUGH! I laugh for a long time, then order a cola. Then I threw up.

So for the rest of the right, I am very paranoid, ducking into little bars, looking left and right at everyone. I end up at 3 little bars, having cola and tea at each... on the look out while they play lounge music... I seriously feel like I'm in a movie. I make it back to the hostel at about 3am... 4 hours after all this madness began.

So to conclude: the one time I let down my guard and gave the benefit of the doubt I was almost burned, so my trust factor for the locals in Istanbul is very low. But whatever, I scammed the scammers. Those bitches.

Korean girls...

... are the bravest backpackers I have ever met.

I have met a few so far, and the ones I met backpack alone and go to all these different places in Asia, Europe and the Middle East, some of which we would consider "dangerous".

I was very surprised to learn this... These girls are young, asian and pretty good looking and they hitchhike, they go out at night alone, and they meet the locals.

If I was a petite asian girl, I definitely would NOT travel by myself.

It amazes me that they can do all this... it pretty much destroyed all my pre-existing stereotypes of "fobs" girls, with "gung-ju-bang" aka. the Princess Sydrome.

The Call to Prayer

As I am writing right now, the call to Prayer is sounding.

Basicaly 5 times a day, the Mosques sound the call to prayer... and you can hear it where ever you are in the city. There are about 10 mosques in Bergama... so they all play the same recording at the same time so the call is in unison.

The call to prayer is more like a song that is very beautiful... everytime I hear it, I look up the sky and stop and listen.

Yesterday when I was on top Bergama's Acrypolis (my favorite ancient site so far), me and some French backpackers were walking down this pretty dangerous road to get out of the ruins and into town. The view was absolutely breathtaking... and as I was navigating the dangerous rocks, I heard the call to prayer all over the city.... once after the other, the mosques all started playing the call.... and I just stood there are listened as it echoed throughout the city and the surrounding mountains.

I can't wait until I hear this in Istanbul in front of the Blue Mosque and in Damascus... in front of the Great Mosque.